Two weeks to go before the trip to Antarctica. Mai the travel agent emails me the confirmation. I create a packing list and try to fit everything in one small suitcase. The suitcase is over-stuffed so I remove a few items and revise my list. Flip flops, ski goggles,...swimsuit, yes swimsuit in Antarctica. Who knows? One activity offers the opportunity to dip in water. The arctic plunge is a thing. Somewhere sailing through Antarctica the boat will stop and let the adventurous swimmers plunge into the water or stop by the shore to let guests run into the freezing ocean. I am sure that I won't do the latter because there is always a way to turn around but with the quick plunge there is no turning back! My husband, Allen asks,
Is that all you are taking?
Yup. You sure you don’t want to go?
Nah, I can’t decide on such short notice.
You are retired.
I need to clean the garage. And besides with you gone I can focus.
That is a great idea! I play with him.
Honestly, our garage is crammed with building material from 15 years of flipping homes and unopened boxes from Home Depot. One project is missing a light fixture or two. It would be nice to come home to a clean garage, I fantasize. This would be in line with ‘The year of pleasure’.
Five days to go Mai attaches the name of the ship, ‘Swan Hellenic,’ Hmm, I never heard of it. Sounds fancy and not basic. Online, the ship appears on my screen and my jaws drop. The lounge is surrounded by huge glass windows overlooking the water. Chandeliers hanging in the dining room, tufted seats, matching zen colors, neutral, clean lines with lime green accents and bamboo wallpaper. The cabin room is minimalist in style with gray accents, modern fireplace encased in blond oak, a king size bed and separate living area with a wide screen TV. The sliding glass doors open to the balcony with the magnificent view of the sea. I scurry out of my office room and call Allen to see this ship. Allen and I have different vices. Mine is travel and his are fancy cameras, guitars, bikes and motorcycles.
He plops down next to me. I’m excited to share,
This brand new ship was Christened in July, a few months before this upcoming voyage, a baby!
Allen stares at the images, quiet for a moment, then says,
Scroll down, scroll up. What does the menu look like?
My brows raise.
The menu reads; beef tartare, sushi, sea bass. The meals are all inclusive with an open bar. He says,
That looks amazing!
You can still go, you know? I jest since my trip is 5 days away. Allen is a street photographer and didn’t think that landscapes would interest him. But then he says,
Ask them how much it will cost?
He can’t be serious, I think. I don’t want to go through all of this if he isn’t serious.
You sure?
Yes. He responds immediately then heads back to his office while I contact the agent.
I ‘whatsapp’ Mia
Can we include my husband for this trip? How much would it cost?
We can take 10% off.
With my phone in hand I run down stairs yelling like a stockbroker on the exchange floor.
They are taking another 10% off. The cruise is already on sale. You would be mad not to take it!
He thinks for a couple seconds too long as he always does. Allen is a bean counter, an accountant therefore every decision is weighed and measured then weighed and measured. I am ready to pull my hair out and he finally says,
Well I have nothing else to do.
I could scream but laughter takes over. Then I shake my head knowing that I shouldn’t encourage him. Now he is hustling to gather winter gear. In the storage room he retrieves goggles, gloves, cap, because he is a sporty sport. And rushes to Rei for the rest.
At Panama airport we sit on our 5 hour layover. We arrive in Buenos Aires a few days before our cruise takes off. The stays are close to $1000 a night! We find that both Coldplay, a rock band, is touring and the Pride festival is taking place. I think, I have never been to Uruguay? And check my phone for rooms in Uruguay. $100 a night. With excitement, I book a few nights in Montevideo. Then text my childhood friend, Sandra who is from Uruguay.
Hey guess what, I am heading to your birthplace. She’s currently living in Orlando, Florida.
Oh sweetie, have a good time, you are so blessed. Be safe.
Sandra and I grew up in Queens but she moved back to Uruguay in her teens. I have a collection of her letters. So far our friendship has lasted over 50 years!
The Cruise
The sun shines on us in November, during Argentinian summer. We arrive at Puerto Madero to embark on our ‘exhibition’. ‘Exhibition’, how we sound like pioneers making a voyage to the unknown. At least unknown to us.
At the dock, 'The Swan Hellenic Vega' is luxurious, sleek and stunning and her first cruise to Antarctica. I can’t wait to see our cabin. With blue lanyards hanging over our necks we hunt for our cabin number 503. On the 5th floor we walk down the hallway and stop at a door. The number on the wall matches our card. The door is open and we see the huge sliding doors to the patio and imagine the sea once we set sail. The shiny modern bathroom is gleaming with black marble and white tiles, across the bathroom two large closets light up when the door is open. On top of our fluffy king size bed lies our matching white robes neatly folded while the crackling fireplace makes the room cozy. The living area was bright with a cushy sofa and curtains for privacy. We hear someone at the door.
Hello, My name is Kadek and I am your personal butler. At your service.
Our butler is neat with a slick side part, white suit, black bowtie, pants and shiny shoes. He steps inside and walks towards us. We stand in the bright living area. Kadek is from Bali, Indonesia and has a nine year old girl being looked after by his mother. His wife left him. He tears up and so do we. Allen and I encounter people willing to share their life stories throughout our travels. I am touched by his story. As he brushes his tears off apologizing to us about crying in front of complete strangers, I reach out to hug him while Allen pats his shoulder. After we all wipe our tears, Kadek reverts to butler mode.
Please call me anytime you need something and I will personally take care of it.
My brother runs tours in bali. Please come and visit us.
I imagine how beautiful the beaches are but I rarely lounge during my travels. But as Kadek describes his lovely home and how much he misses it and how when we visit his mother will cook us a special Bali meal, we take his number down. He says,
April is a good time to visit.
For dinner, the crew takes us to our seats next to an English couple. A stylish looking older couple in their late 60s.They are dating. The man, Rick, lives in New York dressed in a shirt and slacks. The lady, Victoria tanned, lives in Manchester. Donned in her sterling silver bracelet and Rolex watch. She looks regal. While I don’t even have my wedding ring on. I don’t travel with jewelry so as to not draw attention to myself and luring thieves. The following day Rick runs into me and wants to meet for dinner.
Shall we meet for dinner? At 6? In the Swan Dining Room?
He was so proper and formal that I think he was joking.
Certainly. I play along.
There are 95 of us with a nice balance of older folks, middle aged and some in their 20's. The old finally able to afford the time and funds and check the big one off their list. While the rest are not willing to put their lives on hold while the world passes them by. We are from across the Globe. Many of us are experienced travelers and share travel stories. One woman is over 70 years old. Yet in her teens she hopped on a cargo ship from a trapping village in Canada to Australia, then again to Woodstock. This is her second expedition to Antarctica. While another man traveled to 160 countries making my 49 countries paltry. I feel at home ‘talking travel’ with my tribe.
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